GOING WHOLE HOG AT PALMETTO BLUFF'S
MUSIC TO YOUR MOUTH
“I am a big fan of Palmetto Bluff,” says Charleston
Wine + Food executive director, Angel Passailaigue Postell. “It was actually my third
time at Music to Your Mouth. The first year, I just went for the day and then
last year went as a Whole Hog attendee.
Rodney Scott hardly slept a
wink at Palmetto Bluff’s sixth helping of the Music to Your Mouth foodie
festival this past November—at least not on Thursday night. That’s because he
was cooking up an entire hog for Music to Your Mouth. Scott and many other
chefs and attendees were also going whole hog for three or more days and nights
of tasty Lowcountry food, beverages, and music on the banks of the May River.
“It’s like a big family reunion
in your own little world,” says Scott, who runs Scott’s Bar-B-Que in the South
Carolina crossroads town of Hemingway for his day—and night—job.
Scott was preparing a Fatback
Pork Project mixed breed pig (Mangalista and Berkshire) to be served at Friday
night’s riverfront Potlikker Block Party. He was joined by a long list of other
southern chef luminaries that have made Music to Your Mouth a word-of-mouth
favorite in chef circles.
Originally published in the Charleston Post & Courier
Let’s start with the
mouthwatering list of Charleston chefs in attendance this past November: The
Macintosh’s Jeremiah Bacon; Sean Brock of McCrady’s and Husk; Craig Deihl of
Cypress; Mike Lata of FIG and The Ordinary; Slightly North of Broad’s Frank
Lee; Nathan Thurston of Stars; and Charleston Grill’s Michelle Weaver. All of
them swear on a stack of cornbread that they’ll be back in 2013 if possible.
To that Charleston chef stew,
Palmetto Bluff added Jim ‘N Nick’s executive chef Drew Robinson, Atlanta’s Hugh
Acheson, Kevin Gillespie, Linton Hopkins, Anne Quatrano, and Steven
Satterfield, Birmingham’s Chris Hastings (who has attended all six festivals),
Oxford’s John Currence, beloved Bill Smith from Chapel Hill’s Crook’s Corner,
Old Edwards Inn’s Johannes Klepdohr, The Umstead’s Scott Crawford, and many
others—including proven up-and-comers like Cary’s Steven Devereaux Greene (An
Restaurant) and Rob McDaniel from SpringHouse (on Lake Martin near Alexander
City, Alabama). Of his perennial attendance, Hot and Hot Fish Club’s Hastings
says, “There’s really no other event like it. If I could attend one festival
every year, this would be it.”
Unlike some larger festivals,
all of these chefs (and many more) actually cooked, served, and chatted up a
storm at Saturday’s four-hour Culinary Festival on the Village Green. “This
event is really popular with chefs like me for good reason,” says Frank Lee,
who has missed just one. The reasons he and other chefs cite for returning as
often as possible include how well Palmetto Bluff takes care of the chefs and
their families, the interaction between chefs, and the limited ticket sales and
resulting intimacy between attendees and chefs.
Saturday’s tasting portions were
accompanied by tastes of world-class wines (think Turley), spirits (think
Firefly, Maker’s Mark, and more), craft beers (Bluffton’s own River Dog Brewery
was a favorite), Bloody Marys from Charleston Mix and Fat & Juicy, and
coffee from Charleston’s King Bean Coffee Roasters. Late in the session, chefs
could be found enjoying the plated and poured work of others along with
attendees.
The rest of the weekend,
relaxed chefs could be found at a variety of the other events, sharing recipes
and stories with other cooks, beverage buddies, and attendees who quickly learn
chefs love to talk about their craft. “It’s still an event where we can
interact with the guests and really get to know them on a personal level,” says
Sean Brock. “I have met so many people at Music to your Mouth that are now regular
guests at our restaurants.
“I really love how this
festival has evolved over the years. It hasn't lost its intimacy. It feels like
a private party set in one of the most beautiful places in the Lowcountry.”
Though people start filtering
into Palmetto Bluff on Thursday to catch up with foodie friends new and old, as
well as attending special events and classes, the party really got going early Friday
evening with a tailgate party at the bocce courts—followed by the
aforementioned block party that somehow gets better every year.
This past year, Friday
night’s focus was on bacon (Allan Benton of Benton’s Country Hams) and bourbon
(Julian Van Winkle, III, of Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery). The evening
included two short Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA) films showcasing the work
of Benton and Van Winkle.
As with the Charleston Wine +
Food Festival, the SFA was heavily involved. “We are witnessing a proliferation
of festivals in the south and across the nation and what we will see are that
festivals that focus tightly on place will rise to the top and the festivals
that are less focused on their approach will become less relevant,” says SFA director
John T. Edge, who also hosted popular cooking classes led by Chris Hastings and
John Currence.
Friday night’s party also
included Scott’s aforementioned barbeque, lots of steamed seafood, a “bacon
forest” filled with hanging Benton’s bacon, and even a roadie version of Jim ‘N
Nick’s popular “Taco Tuesday” bar that featured tasty tacos with pork, chicken,
beef brisket, catfish, and more. Though the evening ended late with s’mores and
more around blazing firepits, Saturday started early for many with the
traditional 5k fun run—featuring dueling Bloody Mary bars at the finish line.
Following the Culinary
Festival and quick naps for some, Saturday night featured what many view as the
highlight of the weekend: a traditional oyster roast with annual twists. Held
at a secluded riverfront spot, this year’s Kiss the Pig Oyster Roast included
heaping loads of steamed oysters, a creative southern-leaning buffet, and a
huge swine ice sculpture with shots spouting into the mouths of those who chose
to kiss the pig.
Those who think Music to Your
Mouth is simply a mini-Charleston Wine + Food Festival simply haven’t gone
whole hog—yet.
“I am a big fan of Palmetto Bluff,” says Charleston
Wine + Food executive director, Angel Passailaigue Postell. “It was actually my third
time at Music to Your Mouth. The first year, I just went for the day and then
last year went as a Whole Hog attendee.
“I
have seen how the festival has evolved and love how this year they partnered
with the Southern Foodways Alliance and made it really southern and about the
Lowcountry. I love the talent they showcase and it is almost too many amazing
chefs and winemakers in their tasting tent. I do love all of the Charleston
contingency and it is great to see chefs like Michelle Weaver, Frank Lee and
Jeremiah Bacon a part of it.”
You
can bet Postell and many others will be headed to Music to Your Mouth’s website
come sometime in June. That’s when limited Whole Hog tickets will go on
sale—and sell out soon thereafter
Visit
www.musictoyourmouth.com or call 843-706-6400.
Last year’s Whole Hog ticket packages were limited to 150 and sold out quickly
at $875. They’re a bargain when compared to individual event pricing. The 2012
package included: Friday’s tailgating and Potlikker Block Party; the Hair of
the Dog 5k road “race;” Saturday’s Culinary Festival; the famed oyster roast; a
Sunday brunch; two after parties at riverside fire pits; and a gift bag. Second
Helpings, a Lowcountry non-profit dedicated to ensuring no one in the community
will worry about having enough food to eat, received $50 from every Whole Hog
package sale. Staying on-property is also highly recommended, with a two-person
Whole Hog package including two tickets, two nights in a spacious cottage, and
more running $2,750 for two last year.