ODE TO OYSTERS
On October 16th and 17th, thousands of veteran visitors and first time shuckers will gather for the 24th annual Northa Carolina Oyster Festival. What was once a small, local event centered around roasting oysters has grown into something of state and regional stature attended by more than 25,000 people. Along with the now-huge oyster roast, the festival, presented by the Brunswick County Chamber of Commerce and sponsored by Brunswick Community Hospital, boasts an oyster stew cook-off, musical entertainment, shopping, and so much more -- not to mention the popular North Carolina Oyster Shucking Contest, which can lead to a national champion (as has happened twice in the past).
Originally published in Our State Magazine
A TOAST TO THE ROAST
The festival's giant oyster roast is something everyone should see (and taste) at least once. Six large steam tables feature racks of oysters roasting under burlap bags. When the oysters are ready, it takes two volunteers to lift a rack and pour the just-opening delicacies onto tables, where they’re scooped into buckets and sold to hungry oyster eaters.
Volunteers are a huge part of the Festival’s success and the oyster roast is no exception. Typically, 35 or more volunteers from the Brunswick County Shrine Club help steam the oysters, heap them into buckets, and keep the shucking tables and knives clean for the next batch of oyster eaters. Phillip Cheers, treasurer of the local club, estimated that they served more than 1,000 buckets of oysters last year and raised nearly $23,000 to help provide medical services for children with burns and orthopedic conditions.
The buckets are served with hush puppies and seafood sauce, but the oysters take center stage with this snack (they’re actually a meal for many). All day long, people can be seen standing around wooden tables and prying open oysters--or standing in line for another bucket. Last year, record crowds led to the Shriners running out of oysters about two hours before Sunday’s closing -- fortunately, most folks had eaten their fill by that time.
Of course, any major event in the Tar Heel State will have more than just a single food offering. There’s also a bustling fried seafood stand nearby offering heaping portions of fried fish, oysters, shrimp, and more. Those who lean more toward the land than sea when it comes to fare will find plenty of offerings at nearby stands. With choices ranging from sweet to savory, it’s easy to follow the smells and find something delectable.
Adjacent to the additional food stands are adjacent to more than 100 arts and crafts vendors, offering a wide range of unique items. From whimsical signs for seaside homes to lots of unique pieces of art, shopping rivals oyster slurping on both days of the Festival.
Music abounds during both days of the Oyster Festival, with country, rock, beach, blues, Christian, and more genres represented sometime during the event. Crowds typically surround the stage and there’s definitely some dancing--and even a little shagging--to be seen up front. this year's festival will feature performances by beach music favorites The Embers and The Band of Oz.
Along with eating, shopping, and music, festival attendees enjoy free admission to the Museum of Coastal Carolina. A quick walk through this fascinating facility serves as a great introduction--and a reason to come back to Ocean Isle Beach for a more leisurely visit.
For kids and kids at heart, other festival opportunities include: the five- and ten-kilometer Oyster Festival Road Race early Saturday morning (plus a one-mile Fun Run), a climbing wall, rides, games, and so much more.
READY, SET SHUCK!
There are two oyster shucking contests on Saturday afternoon and both are highlights of the Festival. First, the amateur event pits volunteers from the crowd against one another in a race to shuck six raw oysters. The winner is based on time needed to shuck all six, mistakes made, presentation, and more.
The North Carolina Oyster Shucking Championship is another matter entirely, with professional shuckers vying for prize money and the chance to represent the state in the national shucking contest held up in Maryland each year. These are no small stakes -- the winner of the national event gets to head to Ireland to compete for the world title.
While the crowd roars encouragement, each of the pros strives to shuck 24 raw oysters as quickly and correctly as possible. The 2003 event, sponsored by Lowes Foods, was won by Sandra Price of Shallotte. She barely beat out Shirley Simmons from Supply, who had an adjusted time less than a half-second more than Price. The tight victory means Price will head to Maryland for this year’s national contest.
The Festival’s state champion has actually won the national championship twice. After winning the state championship in 2001, Shallotte native Annie Bonifacio won the national Oyster Shucking Contest in 2002 and went on to compete for the world title at the International Oyster Festival in Galway, Ireland.
Bonifacio didn’t win the event, but was the highest placing female in the contest’s history. No American has ever won the event, but Bonifacio’s aunt, Kathy Milliken, also won the women’s category in Ireland after winning the state and national competitions like Bonifacio.
Annie Bonifacio’s story is typical of what the Festival has meant to the area. From age 15 to her current age of 23, she’s spent much of her spare time working in Lloyd Milliken’s Oyster House in Shallotte. She can shuck up to 100 pints of oysters a day and she's turned her experience and speed into victory at the North Carolina Oyster Festival and beyond. When you’re paid by the pint, it’s important to be good--and fast.
Along with the volunteers for the Oyster Roast, more than 60 other volunteers help out with all other facets of the Festival each year. Veteran volunteer organizers Diane and Jerry Marinella of Supply say it’s definitely a team effort by the community. “Quite simply, this event couldn’t take place without the work of so many volunteers,” says Diane. “Some of them don’t even like oysters!”
Volunteers and Brunswick County Chamber representatives staff a popular booth where festival T-shirts and cookbooks are sold. Published in 2002, the popular cookbook is called Saltwater Sensations and contains 400 recipes from local restaurants and families. Lots of Brunswick County seafood is featured, but the oyster definitely takes top billing in this book (and this festival)!
The 24th Annual North Carolina Oyster Festival will take place October 16th and 17th, 2004. The hours are 9am to 7pm on Saturday and 11am to 5pm on Sunday. Admission is $3 a day for ages 13 and older and it’s free for those 12 and under. A free shuttle service is available from Ocean Isle Airport just often the island and is highly recommended (as is coming mid- to late-afternoon, when the crowds have lessened). For more information, call (800) 426-6644 or visit www.brunswickcountychamber.org.