VEGGING OUT
Forget barbecue in the North Carolina City of Asheville...vegetarian cuisine rules the dining scene
North Carolina may be known for its barbecue, but the mountain town of Asheville is an exception. Chefs here are likely to replace chopped pork with tofu, and most locals know their tempeh (soybean cakes) from their seitan (a popular wheat mixture often called "wheat meat," due to its frequent use as a meat replacement).

Asheville was farm-to-table long before it was hip. In the 1800s, it was a drovers' stopover, and farmers brought their produce and livestock to the town center to be bought and sold, traded and bartered.

Originally published in AirTran's GO! Magazine


Drive the streets today, and you'll likely come upon various tailgate markets, where residents and chefs buy produce from local farmers. Many chefs and restaurant owners also work with organizations like the Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project and Asheville Independent Restaurant Association to ensure that the farmers will supply the veggies to local restaurants.

Mark Rosenstein, founder of The Market Place restaurant and a long-time advocate of eating locally, says, "I really think the turning point was when ASAP began [in 1995]. They got the tailgates going, networked the farmers with chefs and helped local farmers understand how to market themselves."

According to Rosetta Star, the founder and owner of the vegetarian and vegan landmark Rosetta's Kitchen, Asheville's vegetarian movement was influenced by the influx of hippies, artists and academic types (faculty and students at nearby colleges) who moved to the city in the 1970s.

"I was raised here in Western North Carolina and can attest to the fact that Asheville was way ahead of the times - especially on the East Coast - in embracing the health food movements," she says. "Being self-sufficient is historically a matter of pride, tradition and survival to the Appalachian people. That, combined with the 'back-to-the-land' hippies and artists who came in the '70s, put Asheville ahead of the curve."

Rosetta and her chefs source produce from nearby farms and tailgate markets to create meatless dishes like the baked tofu-and-avocado sandwich, coconut curry, and mac and cheese (smothered in house-made vegan cheese sauce). Star recently went so far as to create a new position at Rosetta's Kitchen: Local Foods Liaison.

"The job is to coordinate and head up another new project, The Wezeltown Terrace Gardens, which is several acres of organic gardens, fruit trees, berries and herbs grown just for Rosetta's Kitchen," she says. With the guidance of the Local Foods Liaison, Star says several community members now spend a day a week learning gardening, working the land and being paid in gift certificates for the restaurant.

Asheville's other full-service 100% vegetarian restaurant is Laughing Seed Café, which was originally founded in 1991 in the local YMCA. According to owner Joan Eckert, "Vegetarian food shouldn't be a punishment."

And bland vegetables are not what you'll find coming out of the kitchen, which uses produce from Chef Jason Sellers' own farm, as well as another local farm. Sellers whips up some of Eckert's dishes (she was the original chef) and many new ones, like Mercury Not Rising - crispy, battered house-made seitan filet on a whole grain bun seasoned with herbs and spices.

Eckert's other venture, which she owns with her husband Joe, is a brewpub downstairs called Jack of the Wood, where she extends her commitment for vegetarian-friendly fare to the drink list. The organic vegan Green Man Ales pair perfectly with the menu, which includes the tasty Hemp-nut Burger (both the beer and burger are also served at Laughing Seed Café).

Even if they're not strictly vegan or vegetarian, most of Asheville's restaurants cater to non-meat-eaters. "Restaurants in Asheville require vegetarian choices or they alienate about half of the locals," says Early Girl Eatery owner (and vegetarian) Julie Stehling, who runs the popular restaurant on Wall Street with her husband John - who can't live without his pork. "Our menu certainly reflects his Southern blood and need for breakfast meats as much as it reflects my love of vegetables," she says.

Asheville's dedication to those who eschew animal products also extends to bakeries and dessert spots. Vegan breads, like sunflower wheat, sweet date oat and whole wheat sourdough, are the centerpieces at City Bakery, which is also popular for its vegan oatmeal cookie and granola bars. (It also regularly offers two vegan sandwiches and made-from-scratch soups.)

Another sweet-tooth satisfier is French Broad Chocolate Lounge, known for its vegan truffles - especially the strawberry balsamic and pomegranate flavors. "We designed the collection to be suitable for vegan diets, but they are just as popular with non-vegans," says co-owner Jael Rattigan.

The popular after-dinner spot also serves varied seasonal vegan sorbets and ice creams from nearby Ultimate Ice Cream. Try the lemon-mint sorbet and soy-based blueberry ice cream, both made with local ingredients.

There aren't many places in barbecue-centric North Carolina where you can find both locals and chefs so passionately dedicated to the vegetarian lifestyle - let alone options for vegan truffles and ice cream. After a visit to Asheville, even the most die-hard meat eater will be able to tell everyone back home what seitan tastes like.

EATING YOUR VEGGIES IS EASY IN ASHEVILLE. HERE'S WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO ORDER:

Rosetta's Kitchen
Featuring only vegetarian and vegan fare, Rosetta's gets raves for dishes like peanut butter baked tofu. Make sure to have a vegan cookie for dessert; the ginger-chocolate is also wheat-free.

Laughing Seed Café
The vegan Harmony Bowl is a house favorite, with layers of organic brown rice, organic pinto beans, grilled organic tofu, seasonal steamed vegetables and a sesame ginger sauce.

Early Girl Eatery
Co-owners Julie (a vegetarian) and John (a pork lover) Stehling created a restaurant famous for its vegan chili, vegan tofu scramble and avocado-and-sprout sandwich. If you're a meat-lover like John, go for the local sausage and sweet potato scramble.

Sunny Point Café
This bright West Asheville spot serves breakfast all day. The Huevos Fucheros with tofu chorizo is delicious even for dinner. www.sunnypointcafe.com; 828-252-0055

French Broad Chocolate Lounge
The vegan truffles are luscious - try the Thai flavor, made with ginger, lemongrass, green chile, toasted coconut and organic dark truffle. (Note to meat-eaters: If it's on the chalkboard, try the bacon-flavored ice cream.) www.frenchbroadchocolates.com; 828-252-4181